Pie Spy - Mom's Apple Pie, Sebastopol

DROP EVERYTHING AND GO TO MOM'S APPLE PIE, 4550 N. Gravenstein Hwy, Sebastopol

We once heard a comedian say that you should never eat at a place called Mom’s. Advice we had heeded throughout life, until June 5, 2010.

Pie Spy was out and about in the countryside of Sonoma County. Truthfully, we were looking for wine to taste. But we had dallied so long in Petaluma and Sebastopol that, by the time we made it out to Graton, the wineries were closing for the day. Disappointed, we turned back toward town. We knew that the birthday barbecue we were headed for would console us, and soon we would forget all about our disappointment.

And then, suddenly, there was Mom’s Apple Pie – open until 6:00 p.m. (momsapplepieusa.com). We felt better already. The first step through the front door let us know that everything was going to be okay: there were upwards of 20 full-size pies in the case, and a number of 7-inchers as well. There was a list of pie offerings posted overhead – a long list! There were cream pies galore in yet another case to our right. It's a charming place to sit and enjoy your meal.

Blackberry, cherry, apricot, strawberry-rhubarb, wild blueberry, apple, no-sugar fruit pies…by the slice, or by the whole thing. Made with no trans fats! Mom’s also serves sandwiches, soup, and salad in case you need something to eat while you’re making up your mind about the pie. It was an enticing display of Mom’s baking prowess and the orchard abundance of Sonoma County. And Mom, herself, Mrs. Betty Carr, was actually in the house while we were there, although not out front. She’s been selling her pies here since 1983. The web site will tell you more about what Mom's is all about - it's also very charming.

We spied a blackberry turnover in the case, and tested that first. Delightful pastry, poofed up prettily. We wished there had been a little more fruit filling in ours, but what there was of it, we really liked. It disappeared with breathtaking speed.

We couldn’t decide on just one pie, so we opted for two 7-inch pie-ettes. One of these easily would serve three normal people, or two pie freaks. They were beautiful in their simplicity. Here and there, a little bit of fruit filling had oozed out during baking. Of all the pies we’ve tasted on our safaris so far, Mom’s have been the best. The strawberry-rhubarb and the cherry ($6.95) were both, literally, like Mom used to make. Or does make. The crust was just perfect – we don’t know what else to call it. Beautifully flaky but firm, not sweet or salty or crumbly, and not the least bit shiny with butter. The fruits were also done just right, with bright flavors, soft textures, and colors that let you know it's all natural. The homemade quality of these pies made the heart sing. But it was not nostalgia that carried us away at Mom’s. The freshness of the ingredients and the care that goes into making the pies comes through in every bite.

The best part of having your pie here is that you can sit outdoors under an arbor that looks out onto the apple orchard.

If we had found a place like this here in Sacramento, Sac Pie would have had no reason to exist. Mom's Apple Pie has the best pie, at the best value, you are likely to find within 200 miles of this town. Go out and see for yourself!