Sac Pie

The Ugly Pies of Winter 2011

2011-02-02T16:15:00.000-08:00

One reason we have been loath to blog lately is that we cannot get excited about the way our pies are looking when they come out of the oven. We hesitate to use even the word 'homely' to describe these pie gargoyles. We cannot even bear to photograph them.

We were also in the tropics on January 23, National Pie Day, and we hope you all dedicated yourselves to observance of this sacred day. We ate a tiny slice of apple pie from one of the local Hawaiian bakeries as part of our fest.

As we recall, we've produced a couple of good lookers, pie-wise, since we last blogged at you. For Thanksgiving - the Mince, the Apple - but you've seen one pretty pie, you've seen them all, and we don't have any more tricks up our sleeves that improve those two models. And there was a nice potato-cheese-rosemary-leek gallette right after New Year's. But these were followed by a couple of bizarre-looking quiches, a funky looking lumpy blueberry pie, and...

What were we thinking? We had it in our heads to try out a recipe we found online during the summer for Chocolate Cherry Pie. In concept, we thought it sounded luscious and decadent. It called for whole pitted cherries and chunks of good dark chocolate. Our pals at Trader Joe's had the cherries, frozen, for a song, and we sacrificed one of our TJ 70% chocolate bars for the project. The idea, we think, was that the chocolate would melt to make a velvety coating with the cherry juice, and it would be all wine-dark and beautiful, and need no other embellishment.

It was enough to put one off pie-bakery for quite awhile. Although it tasted pretty nice when it was warm from the oven, it was a little gooshy. The frozen cherries did not cook down - this made the upper crust lumpy and the inside wet. When it cooled completely, the chocolate hardened back up into hard stringers throughout the filling. The cherries had no distinctive cherriness at all. POPS, weirdly, said he didn't think even ADDING MORE CHOCOLATE would improve the pie. Worse, we had the uncomfortable and unappetizing notion, looking down at the dessert plate, that we were eating a pie made with whole Kalamata olives. Yikes! Somebody call the law!

It all seems like a bad dream now. Next time, if there is a next time, we will make a compote on the stove of some of the cherries, and add this "jam" to the rest of the fruit. Using fresh cherries and mashing them a little to promote more thorough cooking of the fruit would be a good idea. Have you got any other ideas for ways to improve the outcome?

We have stepped back from the abyss since then to our old familiars. We also found some nicely designed ceramic pie dishes, about 6 inches in diameter, at the Crate and Barrel outlet ($3.50 each) that motivated us to get rolling again. It's time to start using the frozen fruit we squirrelled away in summer - we've never needed a taste of summer more than we do in February. We tried the compote approach with this weekend's pies made from frozen blueberries, and it seemed to help break down the whole berries. The compote just by itself, made with a spoonful of raw honey and a half teaspoon of fresh lemon juice, is irresistable. But that pie wasn't pretty. POPS reminds me that, maybe a lattice top will allow a lot of liquid to boil off so these frozen berry pies are a little less liquidy inside. Good tip - he's smart, and he's cute, too.

Peach Pie and Plutonium Have a Lot In Common

2010-09-15T12:43:00.000-07:00

It was there one moment, and gone the next.

High-speed filmography was only able to capture these few moments before the lovingly created pie you see here winked out of existence. You can see here that it has already been substantially depleted WHILE it was being observed - a quantum pie if ever there was one! Like plutonium, these things have a very short half-life, so they aren't meant to be stable under natural conditions.

We scarcely remember how delicious it was. This one held a blend of cling peaches that weren't great for eating raw, a couple of beautiful large freestones from the Sunday farmer's market, and we sneaked two nectarines in as well.

Like plutonium and most pies around here, this one took exponentially longer to be created than it did to be annihilated by the inexorable force of nature (in this case, the guy with the fork...). Those peaches were a booger to cut and peel, but the result, however fleeting, was delightful. You really cannot fail with good fruit. Fortunately, POPS acquired a new passel of peaches yesterday -- Last Chance, Summer Lady, and what was that other variety, Shropshire? Braunfels? Idaho Red??? -- so that we can make another. And freeze some fruit for later in the year.

Now is the time to be consuming your peaches and tomatoes like there is no tomorrow, because, as far as those plants are concerned, there IS no tomorrow. Freeze, can, make sauce, salsa, jams, conserves, slice, or just eat them. But above all, MAKE PIE WHILE THE SUN SHINES, my friends. And watch them both disappear.

Sac Pie Summer

2010-07-27T13:53:00.000-07:00

Sac Pie has been on hiatus awaiting cooler nights. For as much as we love our pie, we dislike using the oven when it's warm outside. And we equally dislike using our air conditioner to cool down a house heated by an oven. Thus we are in the dog days of pie procrastination.

But just so you know that we are NOT doing absolutely nothing...we are dreaming of fantastical, improbable pies:

sweet tomato (maybe chutney?) pie
blackberry chocolate pie
cherry chocolate pie
melon-lavender chiffon pie
concord grape pie (not so improbable, but not made much)
fig, rosemary, and almond pie

We are procrastinating the peach pie and the jumbleberry pie for just another couple of weeks.

We have stocked the freezer with about 7 pounds of blueberries, and need to process some peaches for the deep freeze while the season is in full production.

We mentally invent pie flavors that would be complemented nicely with Haagen-Dazs Five Ginger ice cream.

We check the figs dutifully each day, but our back yard tree will only yield enough this year for a few snacks.

We daydream about eating a slice of fruity, spicy, velvety pie on the porch on a breezy summer evening just before the sun goes down.

Truthfully, we have not been so crazy about spending a lot of time in front of the computer screen, or in the kitchen, when there is only so much gorgeous outdoor time to savor.

Therefore we must delay gratification with respect to pie until we've had our fill of indolent, indulgent, incandescent, incomparable summer. And we hope you are enjoying it just as much as Sac Pie.

Pie Spy - Z-Pie in Placerville

2010-07-12T13:57:00.000-07:00

Pie Spy would be remiss if Z-Pie had not had a place in its annals. Do you not know? Have you not seen? Z-Pie, at 3182 Center Street in Placerville (www.z-pie.com) is serving up a full menu of savory light meal-size pies, as well as soups, salads, and desserts, in a comfortable and inviting space with white tablecloths, orchids, and cool background jazz. The most abundant choices for pie in Placerville are right there downtown.

Z-Pie emphasizes fresh and seasonal ingredients, and lists them all on the menu. The pie dough is made with butter, and each one is about 4 inches in diameter, golden brown, double-crusted, and fresh-tasting. No artificial ingredients and a commitment to recycling and reducing waste are a hallmark of this eatery. Z-Pie’s menu reflects the fruit and vegetable bounty of the surrounding orchards and farms in Placer County. Although they have a playful attitude toward their flavor combinations, we were pleased to see that they tweak familiar flavors into something distinctive, but don’t venture out on the flaky edge toward weirdness.

There are about a dozen savory fillings to choose from – plus two for breakfast. You can walk in and take the little pies home with you – frozen – for later. The restaurant also has beer and wine if that seems like the thing to have with your pie.

Best of all, you can get out of there with two happy tummies for under 15 bucks.

On scorching Sunday afternoon, Pie Spy and POPS made our first visit to Z-Pie. We walked down Main Street, ducked in at Sierra Rizin’ Bakery to cadge a few pastries to go (no pie!) and asked the attendant there where Center Street is. She explained with a puzzled look that she’d lived in Placerville all her life and didn’t know where it was. So we asked her instead where Z-Pie is. She said, “Oh - that’s my favorite restaurant! I can show you exactly where it is!” She walked us out the door and pointed at the parking garage next to City Hall. “It’s just across the street from the garage,” she said. Yet again, the mental map of memorable meals is often more enduring, reliable, and available for recall than any other kind.

Within a couple of minutes we were seated and ordering. We selected two vegetarian pies – the tomatillo stew and the Very Vege (do we pronounce that veggie or vedge-eh?). We toyed with ordering the fresh gazpacho with our lunch, but opted for caution because we didn’t want to over-fill. The pies were served hot, with flaky but substantial tops and bottoms, and came in cute little pie-sized bowls. This is a place after Pie Spy’s own heart, we thought as we dug in.

The Very Vege had a little bit of everything – zucchini, spinach, bean, potato, onion, pepper, hmm, many things all melded together in a red-brown gravy that provided just enough moisture and lushness. The first bite brought us a little too close to the taste of canned vegetable soup – highly salted, a pinch too much oregano for our taste. But did we eat the whole thing and smile about it? Of course we did.

The tomatillo stew pie was delicious with its black beans, cumin, hominy, poblano, green chilis, and jalapeno peppers. Most of these ingredients melded into the background and were not identifiable. The combination was magical and satisfying, though. And not just because we were very hungry. It was shocking, really, how quickly these charming pies disappeared.

Pie Spy had every intention of sampling the dessert pies (grilled apple or blackberry?) but used up all our capacity on lunch. So we will have to save desserts for our return visit (all desserts can be served with a heap of vanilla bean ice cream if you just can’t stop yourself).

Pie Spy loves Z-Pie and wants everyone to know about it. Satisfying, made with healthful ingredients, a place to enjoy the fare, attentive servers, and plenty of choices makes it a big win. It is worth a visit on your way to or from Apple Hill (where, depending on the day, you can find even more pies of every size and flavor). Or, if you love it even more than we do, ask them about opening a franchise down here in Sacramento so that we can visit you often. And don’t forget to tell them that Pie Spy sent you!

Pie of the Week - There's an Ap for That

2010-06-13T11:57:00.000-07:00

Inspired by Mom's Apple Pie in Sebastopol, we decided to buy a few pounds of 'cots at the farmer's market to make a pie. Dear old Betty Crocker (as opposed to Betty Carr, a.k.a. Mom)...she told us that we would need five cups of apricot halves for a 9-inch pie. But we didn't have quite that many, so we downsized the recipe and put it in a smaller, 8-inch pan.

Like many of the recipes we've explored through this blog, this one was an experiment. The first surprise was that the apricots, although mostly very firm and a bit on the dry side, released a bunch of juice once mixed with sugar and flour. Although we cleaved to Betty's advice about the amount of sugar in the filling (almost three quarters of a cup!), we found that the filling is still a little on the tart side. We added some dehydrated ginger chips, crushed up - about 2 teaspoons - to the filling, but found that the flavor was not strong enough.

Because it was shaping up to be a gorgeous hot summer Sacramento day, we wanted to make pie very early. The great thing about apricots is that you don't have to peel them - that would have really slowed us down. Prep time was relatively quick. It was just a matter of getting the dough together (reducing Betty Crocker's recipe for a standard double-crust 9-incher, using 1.5 c of flour and 0.5 c of shortening) and rummaging around for that 8-inch pan, somewhere in the black heart of a mighty disheveled kitchen cabinet...must speak to POPS about his curation of the collection.

The wisdom on Mom's Apple Pie website holds that you should not be alarmed or dismayed on discovering that your pie "runs over" while baking or is a little gooshy inside. These things, Mom says, are normal. Good to know, because this one, while pretty much a textbook pie on the outside, DID run over (sorry about the burning smell, honey!), and was pretty juicy in the middle. We liked that the fruit cooked down to a soft, almost jamlike texture, but we weren't expecting there to be juice. So this would not have garnered a ribbon at the county fair - it turned the bottom crust all mushy. Next time, we must use more starch to absorb the moisture a little more effectively - two generous tablespoons of flour called out in the recipe was not enough. We were very pleased with the bright orange color of the fruit, very summery and enticing. The flavor was almost like peach, which made Sac Pie yearn for full-on peach season, but a little brighter and zippier. Would fresh grated ginger be a good enhancement the next time we bake this?

Even with all that in mind, apricot pie is not something to be scared of. One wonders why we don't see it more commonly here in Sacramento bakeries. Indeed, one wonders why we don't see bakeries more commonly here in Sacramento...We have received encouragement ourselves to be the next big bakery thing in this town, and the former Phillips building is still available, so....

As a candidate for breakfast, we can recommend the Betty Crocker apricot pie, modified as above, for your summer menu. We don't know if it's nutritious or not - surely there are some good antioxidants or carotenes in apricots, right? But then there's vitamins for that. Soon it will be too hot to bake, and the apricots will be all gone, so try this, improve it, and enjoy it! And let us know how it goes!

Pie Spy - Mom's Apple Pie, Sebastopol

2010-06-09T17:50:00.000-07:00

DROP EVERYTHING AND GO TO MOM'S APPLE PIE, 4550 N. Gravenstein Hwy, Sebastopol

We once heard a comedian say that you should never eat at a place called Mom’s. Advice we had heeded throughout life, until June 5, 2010.

Pie Spy was out and about in the countryside of Sonoma County. Truthfully, we were looking for wine to taste. But we had dallied so long in Petaluma and Sebastopol that, by the time we made it out to Graton, the wineries were closing for the day. Disappointed, we turned back toward town. We knew that the birthday barbecue we were headed for would console us, and soon we would forget all about our disappointment.

And then, suddenly, there was Mom’s Apple Pie – open until 6:00 p.m. (momsapplepieusa.com). We felt better already. The first step through the front door let us know that everything was going to be okay: there were upwards of 20 full-size pies in the case, and a number of 7-inchers as well. There was a list of pie offerings posted overhead – a long list! There were cream pies galore in yet another case to our right. It's a charming place to sit and enjoy your meal.

Blackberry, cherry, apricot, strawberry-rhubarb, wild blueberry, apple, no-sugar fruit pies…by the slice, or by the whole thing. Made with no trans fats! Mom’s also serves sandwiches, soup, and salad in case you need something to eat while you’re making up your mind about the pie. It was an enticing display of Mom’s baking prowess and the orchard abundance of Sonoma County. And Mom, herself, Mrs. Betty Carr, was actually in the house while we were there, although not out front. She’s been selling her pies here since 1983. The web site will tell you more about what Mom's is all about - it's also very charming.

We spied a blackberry turnover in the case, and tested that first. Delightful pastry, poofed up prettily. We wished there had been a little more fruit filling in ours, but what there was of it, we really liked. It disappeared with breathtaking speed.

We couldn’t decide on just one pie, so we opted for two 7-inch pie-ettes. One of these easily would serve three normal people, or two pie freaks. They were beautiful in their simplicity. Here and there, a little bit of fruit filling had oozed out during baking. Of all the pies we’ve tasted on our safaris so far, Mom’s have been the best. The strawberry-rhubarb and the cherry ($6.95) were both, literally, like Mom used to make. Or does make. The crust was just perfect – we don’t know what else to call it. Beautifully flaky but firm, not sweet or salty or crumbly, and not the least bit shiny with butter. The fruits were also done just right, with bright flavors, soft textures, and colors that let you know it's all natural. The homemade quality of these pies made the heart sing. But it was not nostalgia that carried us away at Mom’s. The freshness of the ingredients and the care that goes into making the pies comes through in every bite.

The best part of having your pie here is that you can sit outdoors under an arbor that looks out onto the apple orchard.

If we had found a place like this here in Sacramento, Sac Pie would have had no reason to exist. Mom's Apple Pie has the best pie, at the best value, you are likely to find within 200 miles of this town. Go out and see for yourself!

Pie Spy in LA County

2010-05-31T15:28:00.000-07:00

Spoiler alert! Serious foodporn follows.

Although no one responded to my blog request for suggested venues for our May Pie Safari, we were met with a wealth of choices, mystery spots, and Plan B-level selections when we arrived in LA County.

In addition to all the places we visited that did NOT have pie, Pie Spy and POPS managed to hit and sample many fine pie establishments in LA, Pasadena, Eagle Rock, and Altadena. The obvious choices were places that had the word PIE in their names, but we dug a little deeper for some true gems. No, gentle reader, we did not flinch from overeating in the service of research! This area is rich with great cuisine of all sorts, and every dining experience we had there was very, very good. A little bit of sticker shock in Pasadena itself - we agreed that we could have gone to France with just what we spent on food there - but otherwise, it was a delight to wander and find something really wonderful around every corner. The down side of that is, of course, that there are only so many spots you can visit in a short vacation. We will be saving many, many of them on our Next Time List.

That includes Larkin's, in Eagle Rock at 1496 Colorado Boulevard (larkinsjoint.com). Terrific, spiced-up southern cooking and BBQ, with one of the most interesting salad ideas we've seen in quite a long time - mixed greens with okra croquettes! We would have loved some of Larkin's mom's own sweet potato pie after dinner, but we were just too, too full after the salad, some barbecued portobello mushrooms, and two sides. In fact, we didn't even feel hungry the next day.

Next Time List also includes Auntie Em's - 4616 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock (auntieemskitchen.com). Somebody beat us to the cherry-berry pie while we were ordering lunch, and they bought the whole thing. Even more of a pie nut than we are, apparently. Chef Teri Wahl does savory pot pies from time to time, as well as desserts.

So let's get rolling on the inventory.

Pie N Burger - 913 E. California, Pasadena (pienburger.com). The place looks like it's been there forever - since 1963, in fact. The menu is on the wall at the front and back of the diner. Lunch was a big salad and a garden burger, but that was only to buy us some time in making our selection for a pie slice. There were a couple of dozen pie choices, and many of them were fresh fruit. We settled on boysenberry. Win! Look how gorgeous this is. The flavor of boysenberry (a fruit that was perfected and made popular down in Orange County, at Knott's Berry Farm, not the amusement park) was clean and unmuddled by excessive refined sugar. Really, really great. Definitely $4.50 worth of fun. And we loved the clock!

Gourmet Cobbler Factory, 33 N Catalina Ave., Pasadena (thegourmetcobblerfactory.com) - While Pie Spy was busy being entertained in a stuffy conference room, POPS was out and about scouting for goodies. POPS has a nose for bakeries, which he follows faithfully, and it never fails. He snagged us a golden baby sweet potato pie from the cobbler joint. Try as we might, we could not damp down the almost radioactive orange color of this tiny pie in the photo. By the way, we appreciate that the POPS has the will power to delay gratification and share these yummies with yours truly, instead of snarfing them up when we are not looking. Creamy, spicy, definitely rich and flavorful, but not overtly sweet - we spooned up the sweet potato pie-ette as breakfast and were very happy. Props to the Cobbler Factory for selling fruit cobblers in foil tins from the personal to vat-sized.

POPS happened across a few Armenian bakeries with very reasonably priced treats, some of which were new discoveries. Why don't we have any talented Armenian bakers here in SacTown? Here are the highlights:

Old Sasoon Bakery - 1132 N. Allen Ave, Pasadena. Our favorite was their swiss chard turnover (panjar) and tiny spinach pie (beorag). Neither of these was anything like a traditional Greek-style spanakopita, or any other spinach pie we've tried. The swiss chard hand pie was made of a sturdy dough and a mysterious combination of seasonings (including tahini and onion) that imparted a reddish color and spicy kick to the filling. This is something we want more of - it makes an excellent lunch. No messy flakes or greasy fingers, either. Old Sasoon has a website, but it doesn't seem to be working.

Two other Armenian bakeries, close by:

Panos - 1649 E. Washington Blvd., Pasadena (panosbakery.com). No pie- all cookies, baklava, and other Mediterranean-inflected sweets. Which we sampled; many.

Vrej - 1074 N. Allen, Pasadena (vrejpastry.net) - All cookies, baklava, and gorgeous, lovely cakes. Half a pound of cookies was about three dollars.

(sigh)...Back to pie.

Dutch Oven Bakery - 2281 Lake Ave., Altadena. Sunday we found fresh apple turnovers at this very unassuming little bakery. This is not the kind of bakery that has a web site. No puff pastry and Denny's style filling here - just a simple, easy-to-handle firm dough and fresh apples with cinnamon. This little gem also sold peach cobbler in vats, as at the Cobbler Factory. One of their menu items is an old-school sweet bean pie, but none were available. It was Sunday, after all, on a holiday weekend. Put that on the Next Time List. Prices were very reasonable here, too.

EuroPane - 345 E Colorado, Pasadena. EuroPane has a newer location at 950 E. Colorado, where we had terrific blueberry brioche and apple strudel on our first day. We loved the large, rough-hewn wooden table made out of a single slab. The interior is quite beautiful and a great place to sip your coffee in peace. At the original location, which is smaller and more lively, we sampled the apple pie-ette with lattice crust. For breakfast, oh yeah! And it was completely satisfying in all respects - a very homemade quality, excellent flavors, and extremely fresh. POPS was able to use the Spy Cam to get into the prep area and snap a few shots of the pie master at work. Note that she is multitasking.

If we can digress for just a minute - You must visit Bulgarini Gelato at 749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena (bulgarinigelato.com). It is in an unassuming strip-mall location that you may have to miss a couple of times before you find it. But it is definitely worth multiple visits. Handmade gelati of various flavors, including unconventional ones like goat's milk straciatella, Florentine salted chocolate, and best of all, plain yogurt gelato with olive oil drizzled on top. This last one was perfectly balanced between sweet and tart, and very rich - almost like eating cream cheese. The half-teaspoon of olive oil was an unexpected complement to the flavor. Our server told us that they serve this gelato often at wine tastings, and we can appreciate how it would be well received as such, but we could eat it every day, whether there is any wine involved or not.

Trails Cafe - 2333 Ferndell Road, Los Feliz (thetrailslosfeliz.com, not much of a website) - Just inside Griffith Park on Ferndell Road in LA is the very popular Trails Cafe. Just a few short years ago, there was nothing here but a Coke machine. We found out about the Trails through LA Weekly, and are glad we did. The cafe serves all kinds of snacks, a few salads, coffee, and more substantial fare in addition to pie. The line was long but the wait was not. We spied the very tall apple pie through the glass (see the photo at the top of today's post) and knew we had to have it. Our server told us there were also some individual cherry crisps on hand. We had to have that too, for back stock. All the baked items are 'from scratch,' a friendly sign informed us.

Our pie was served warm, a slice large enough for a village. It looks wonderful in the photo - that brown, flaky crust, chunky fruit, et cetera, right? The pie had skins-on chunks of Golden Delicious that were just firm enough, with delicate flavor. Leaving the skins on was not a good choice. The pie had a weird, stringy brown goo inside, which tasted cinnamony-sweet but was visually unappealing - it would stretch almost like warm mozzarella. We found the crust hard to pierce with a recyclable plastic fork. Make no mistake, though - we ate the whole thing! At $4.50 a slice, we felt we could not let any go to waste.

The cherry crisp was in the mini-pie shell on the upper left of the photo below. We saved it until we came home to Sac, and it traveled very well. The cherries were perfectly sweet/tart and chewy, with no goo. The pie shell was made of the same very firm dough formulation as the apple pie, but it seemed to work a lot better as a bowl for the cherries and oatmeal crisp topping. Worth the five bucks! Good job, Trails. Keep this one on the menu!

House of Pies, 1869 N. Vermont, Los Angeles (houseofpiesrestaurant.com) - No pie safari can be undertaken without at least a look in at the House of Pies, the last holdout of what was once a large chain throughout the LA region. The sign alone lets the imagination run wild. We stopped in about 30 minutes after we ate the apple pie at the Trails. In retrospect, this was probably too soon. At this point, all Pie Spy's pie receptors were redlined, and nothing in the case looked good. On view in the cases were multiple pies of the custard, meringue, and cheesecake varieties. We did not spy any fruit pies, and in truth, didn't want any! But we had to know. And now we do.

While we recognize that we were merely scratching the surface of potential pie opportunities, we think our trip was a total success. Pie Spy was inspired to find some new fillings to experiment with, to get brave with soft berries that are now in season, and to check in again with our local Sacramento scene and see what's on the menu. What have you had your eye on while we were away?

Pie of the Week - Blueberry

2010-05-16T14:08:00.000-07:00

Ask us what our favorite fruit is. Go ahead.

No, it is not dragon fruit.

It's too early for this season's blueberries to make a fresh blueberry pie. But we just can't wait another minute. We need to make some space in the freezer for this year's supply, so we need to use up last summer's frozen bounty and get our taste buds ready for a season of abundant berry happiness. And, well, we need pie.

Way before Sac Pie was Sac Pie, there was a little kid whose family spent some summer weekends with another family in southern New Jersey, one of the berry-growingest places in the country. Blues love the heat and sandy soil of the Jersey coastal plain. We would wake up on a July morning, and go out before it got hot, with our moms and sibs and a picnic lunch - about a dozen of us, in two enormous station wagons - to pick blueberries for a few hours at one of the local you-pick farms. The moms would split up the take, and bake and freeze and sprinkle blueberries every which way. Our families had full-size freezers, as was the rage in the 1970s, so the moms learned how to freeze and package blueberries so they would last us all year.

We gorged on the fresh, warm ones straight from the bushes while we were picking because we were naughty and unruly little people. We whined about being hot and thirsty and about the bucket of blue getting too heavy to carry. We chased each other down the endless rows of bushes. Our collective harvest was 20 or 30 pounds each time, so the farmer definitely did not lose money. In the days following our descent upon the berry farm like a swarm of locusts, there were pancakes, coffee cakes, ice cream, shakes, and fruit salads full of blueberries. There were eight or nine happy little kids with blue tongues, teeth, and fingers. And there was that one kid who got scarred for life picking blueberries and never willingly ate them again. Overall, it was really great. Our moms are gone now, but they made a life-long memory for us of the joy of picking delicious fruit while the sun shines.

The blueberry makes for pie nirvana. Today, we've got the semi-good-for-you whole wheat crust with palm oil shortening (with no trans fats and no cholesterol), about 5 cups of blueberries so plump they look like concord grapes (don't forget to remind everyone that you're getting a potent dose of antioxidants), about 3 tablespoons (to taste) of organic cane sugar, a third-cup of tapioca mixed in with the fruit, and some fresh grated lemon zest from the back yard tree. If you have your own stash of last summer's haul in the freezer, you might as well use it up, because more blueberries are on the way soon. If you are not stocked, go to Trader Joe's and buy their frozen blueberries, which are consistently good and not expensive (how do they do it?). As with any other frozen fruit filling, you will need to bake this pie a little longer than the fresh-fruit version.

Try this and see if it doesn't taste like summer. Or, at least, enough like summer to make you hang on for this year's crop. The unassuming, wall-flowerish blueberries are transformed into something jammy, and their perfume blends with that of the lemon zest to create a sillage, almost like roses, that evokes sitting among the berry bushes in the summer sunshine. You can almost hear the birds chirping. No, wait - those are real birds.

With juicier fruits like these, we like to make a mound of berries in the middle, and then press a subtle moat into the top crust before we seal it. The moat will catch any boiling juices that escape through the slits on the surface of the pie. It may take expanding the circumference of the upper crust by another 2 inches, so you have to plan ahead. But this way, we can further postpone cleaning the oven.

How's your crimping technique?

We learned this fluted edge from one of our favorite moms. We like it even better than the way we learned it from our own mom. And it is much, much, much more interesting than the freshman-level fork-crimping method. You just pinch the edge (from the inside of the pie pan) with thumb and forefinger of one hand (the left, in the example below). Then use the forefinger (or forefinger knuckle) and thumb of the other hand to push in and shape the edge from the outside of the pan, with just enough pressure exerted from both sides to seal the edge at the same time. As you practice this more, your flutes will become more uniform, and you will find that you can adjust the size of them so that the last flute you make blends seamlessly with the first one.

We are getting more confident with the use of whole wheat flour (this time, pastry flour) as a sub for half of the white flour in the dough. It added a definite tawny color to the final product, did not warp or ripple, and improves the firmness of the crust. Be advised that the dough may dry out faster than the usual formula - so you may have to roll it out more quickly than you would otherwise. But otherwise, no adjustments should be necessary.

Use caution, and a big spoon, if eating this pie in a hammock or on a white couch. That blueberry stain may come off your teeth and fingers, but it does not, not, not come out of fabrics!

Pie of the Week - Quiche and Tell

2010-05-05T13:57:00.000-07:00

There are few dishes that we can think of that can be served up as breakfast, or lunch, or dinner. Depending on the filling, a burrito may fit the bill. Of course, the revered Freeport Bakery Knish is a winner. Spanakopita could also work (have we mentioned Petra yet, at 16th and L? Wait 'til you see their monster spanakopita). In each case, it's got a combination of savory ingredients and interesting spices with something soothing and plain, like potatoes, pastry, or eggs. The dishes that are successful meal tri-fectas also feel substantial - enough to last you awhile - but not gratiutously rich.

And where are you going to get a dynamite all-day burrito in this town? It's not as easy as it should be. Especially if you don't eat meat. This is a source of frequent lament at Sac Pie.

Now where were we?

Oh, yes - it's time to make a quiche. Or more accurately, a vegetable-egg pie. It won't be six inches tall, as we see it in some bakery and specialty grocery cases. But then, it won't cost $20, either. It will be fitting for Sunday breakfast/brunch with fresh fruit, or an elegant brown-bag workday lunch, or a light evening meal with a fresh tomato or beet salad. Great for springtime. It has some good protein in it, and green vegetables to make you big and strong. If spinach isn't your vegetable of choice, try some finely chopped steamed broccoli instead. If you make a whole wheat crust, then you can feel especially virtuous when you eat it. It's pretty easy to toss together, with ingredients you probably have in your refrigerator or freezer right now. You will find, after a few times making it, that you don't even need a recipe. It can be a unique work of art every time you make it. Let's cook!

Ingredients:

Basic pie dough for one 9-inch crust

Four eggs (room temperature)

[Optional: water or milk]

1 c (dry) chopped frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed

[Optional: 1 potato, peeled and thinly sliced]

1-2 T finely chopped scallion

1 to 1.5 c grated cheese, such as Gruyere, Iberico, Swiss, Havarti, or a combination

Seasonings to taste: ground pepper, dried tarragon, chervil, thyme, chives

Directions:

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Place the pie dough in a 9-inch pie pan or quiche dish, pressing dough into the corners and allowing it to drape over the edge.

[Optional: Line the bottom of the pastry with the thinly sliced potatoes.] Sprinkle the onions evenly across the bottom surface.

Separate three of the four eggs. Beat the one whole egg with the three separated yolks until well mixed. You may decide to add a tablespoon of water or milk to this mixture. Mix in the chopped spinach with the eggs until evenly combined. Add all but a handful of the grated cheese, Add to the mixture whatever herbs and spices you wish. Then whip the remaining egg whites (in a clean bowl) until stiff peaks form.

Using a spatula, slowly and gently fold the egg whites into the egg-spinach mixture. This is what will give your quiche an oven bounce that won't completely deflate after it cools. Use even, circular motions and continue until the whites are evenly mixed in with the egg-spinach combination. Don't overdo it or the mixture will probably deflate.

Pour the filling into the pastry-lined dish. Trim the edge of the pastry and bake. About halfway through the bake time (i.e., when the middle is starting to be less jiggly), you may garnish the top with the remaining cheese and perhaps a few thin slices of tomato or red bell pepper. Bake until the center of the quiche is firm and the top golden, about 40 to 45 minutes.

Cool 20 minutes before slicing and, no matter what time of day it is, you will have pie-that's-a-meal, fresh and ready.

Pie Spy - On the Road to SoCal

2010-04-28T14:14:00.000-07:00

Hey, pie lovers! Pie Spy is hitting the road again at the end of May, bound for the sunny south. POPS (Partner of Pie Spy - thank you for the acronym, Kim!) is also going on the adventure and is compiling a list of eateries to check out. We have some pie destinations in mind, and our voyage may splash over into Orange County. So we wanted to give all of you who enjoy SacPie a chance to contribute your suggestions for new or favorite places we should spy on.

Please post in your comments any pie stops that come to mind. Check out our posting of 19 March, Pie in Los Angeles, to see the hallowed ground we have already trod (trod?). We will not be revisiting those, but we will do our best to visit as many of the new ones as we can. Anything especially offbeat or just plain odd would place high on our growing list.

We will also be spending quality time on the beach in Orange County, so pie stops in Newport Beach, San Clemente, Seal Beach, or other coastal spots will give you double credits! So please help us plan our road trip and get in on the pie safari. Post your suggestions in comments by 21 May 2010. Thanks!

Pie Movie - Waitress

2010-04-25T16:04:00.000-07:00

All right. Maybe you want to think about pie, but without having to make or eat one yourself.

(Really?)

The couch is too comfortable, the kitchen is too warm, your belly too full, the cupboard too bare. In that case, maybe today is the day to see "Waitress." If you didn't see it when it came to the Tower Theatre in 2006, you can get it on DVD. We just watched it again the other night (thank you, McClatchy Library).

The film features Keri Russell as the young, small-town titular waitress, who is even more of a pie baker than Sac Pie. Unlike Sac Pie's pie thing, though, pies help the troubled Jenna express her feelings, and at the same time, assert some measure of control and accomplishment in her very out-of-control life. She even gives pies as gifts, and her pies are the talk of the town.

The movie was directed by Adrienne Shelley, who also plays the role of one of Jenna's two waitress friends. I fell in love with Adrienne Shelley in Hal Hartley's movies, "The Unbelievable Truth," and "Trust," but that's another story.

They made a lot of pies in this movie - the pies were uncredited as co-stars, however. There's I Hate My Husband pie, I Don't Want Earl's Baby pie, Naughty Pumpkin pie, Vanilla Custard Pie With Banana Hold the Banana, and several others. Not an expected normal pie among them, sweet or savory. There is a song about pie that Adrienne Shelley wrote for the movie - kind of a pie lullaby.

Amidst all of the inventing and making of pies, there is a very real and compelling story of a woman who has lost her way. There is romance, desperation, sparklingly funny dialogue, wayward men, and a tasty plot twist. We watch Jenna make (and sometimes unmake) several pies in the kitchen of the diner where she works - and there, she is in charge and restored to herself. The pies look gorgeous, most of the time, and we get to see several people digging in to them. Adrienne Shelley claimed that she added several pounds during the filming, because of all the pie.

This movie has a wealth of elements that we all can identify with: small town charm, what we learned from our parents, friendship, doomed relationships, the fears of being a parent, living with our mistakes, and figuring out how to be happy are among the themes in "Waitress."

It's a sweet and lively movie, and Sac Pie loves it for many reasons, but especially for putting pie in the foreground for those of us on the couch!

Testing 1-2-3-Whole Wheat Pie Crust

2010-04-07T10:39:00.000-07:00

If you are a purist about pie - seasonal fruit, organic ingredients, all natural - then it makes sense that you would eschew white flour in favor of a more healthful option for your pie crust....If it makes the pie better, that is.

Whole wheat pie crust: just the words seem to connote hardpan, hockey pucks, hippies, humorlessness, heaviness, and humdrum. On the flip side, though, there are the health benefits and perhaps the fun of experimentation with a new approach to pastry.

The challenge is to find a recipe that not only does what pie dough should - rolls, stretches, flakes, browns, and tastes good - but provides those attributes without requiring some other ingredients that subtract from the good reasons to use whole wheat flour. Whole wheat crusts that we've tried in the past were made with cooking oil instead of shortening, and they were, to be blunt, miserable to work with, unbeautiful to look at, and unpalatable to eat. Let's see if this one is an improvement.

In this inaugural attempt, we had to start somewhere...and Sac Pie can almost hear you moaning about this already...so we picked a recipe that included some familiars - butter as well as shortening, white flour as well as whole wheat. We know, we know. We hope you whole wheat zealots will not be too disappointed. We need a jumping-off point for continued experiments, and we figure we can gradually reduce butter and white flour and stop before we reach that "humdrum" end point. We are going to follow the recipe to the letter and see what happens. This trial is also a first for us using butter in pie dough ANNNNNDDD using our Cuisinart to make the dough.

This recipe comes from WikiHow. We chose it because it could be done in relatively few steps and without ingredients that we wouldn't otherwise use in a pie pastry.

For this recipe, we decided to make a pie with the remaining frozen peaches from last summer (which were luscious, were they not?). So that, if the crust was a bust, we would at least have that lovely fruit to spoon up.

As with most pie dough, the key thing again is that your liquid is ice-cold. If you do use a food processor to blend the fat into the flour, open it up and lift the bottom ingredients upward with a spatula or spoon, to make sure nothing is getting trapped in a clump on the bottom.

All right, here is the recipe, from WikiHow for pie dough with whole wheat flour:

Ingredients:

2 c all-purpose white flour

1/2 c whole wheat flour

1/2 c butter

1/2 c shortening

ice cold water (several tablespoons)

1 tsp(ish) salt

1 T(ish) sugar

Instructions:

Add the dry ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and pulse, roughly 5 times at 1 to 2 seconds each pulse.

Cut the butter into small chunks.

Add the chunks of butter to the bowl and pulse again, roughly 5 times at 1 to 2 seconds each time. With a spoon or spatula, lift the mixture from bottom to top all the way around the bowl.

Add the shortening, in small chunks to the bowl and pulse again. Lift again. At this point the mixture should look slightly crumbly.

Add the water in 1-2 T increments, followed by a pulse of the processor (and a lift). Repeat until the dough begins to clump and pull away from the sides of the bowl.

When you reach this point, feel the dough by squeezing it lightly. It should be moist, pliable, and slightly sticky. Remove it from the food processor and into another bowl, and shape into a ball.

The dough should be worked with rather quickly to keep the butter from melting. You may elect to cover it with a damp towel if the day is warm and dry.

You can see that the dough forms a ball quite easily, is moist and not crumbly, and that the butter and shortening are well distributed.

Follow this recipe and you will end up with almost enough dough for two pies. In addition to the pie shown above, we made a small 7-incher with the extra dough (also with double crust). You will find that the dough is very easy to roll out - possibly a little more elastic than our usual recipe. As with our usual recipe, it is, however, still slow to brown. We left this baby in the oven for nearly an hour (fearful of overcooking), the last 20 minutes on the top rack.

We encountered almost immediate shrinkage of the pastry as it began to warm up. You can see a little warping of the edge in the picture below. Interestingly, this did not happen to the small 7-inch pie made with the same pastry. Hmmm. Was it the result of two different pie pan materials? Was it anything to do with the differences in the two fillings? Sac Pie is mystified. We only know that it's not the dough itself that causes shrinking.

It doesn't look like it's going to taste bad, does it?

Well, it was perfectly fine. We wanted it to be a little more flaky on top, so there is room for improvement. We could not discern the benefits of the butter in either taste, appearance, or texture of the crust. We detected a slightly dry feel to the crust, but this might have been the result of the pie's bake-a-thon in the oven rather than the ingredients. With all of those things in mind, we still enjoyed snarfing up this pie and the first one gives us confidence to try again: less butter, maybe a small increment of whole wheat flour to replace the white flour.

Don't be intimidated by the novelty of this recipe. It behaves well, tastes good, and is pleasing to the eye. It makes a fine package for your frozen peaches, and is a homey, comforting product.

Pie of the Week - Lemon Tart

2010-03-29T12:55:00.001-07:00

It's time.

I have been putting this off all winter. I look at those Meyer lemons bobbing on the tree out back and think, "I gotta do something with those." I've made lemonade, limoncello, and lemon-juice ice cubes. And there are still so many lemons out there. Look at them all! Next I must consider preserved lemons.

After I get finished with lemon tart, that is. Tart is just another word for pie with no lid.

My web research on lemon tart led me through the looking-glass and into a vast lemon tart alternate universe. I never knew that this was a tart people became passionate about. And, as with everything else one searches for on the web, there are gazillions of recipes - and all of them called THE BEST LEMON TART RECIPE -EVER!!!! Sac Pie could make an entire career out of comparing all the lemon tart recipes side by side in an enormous early spring bake-off - amount of butter/eggs, ease of preparation, presentation, taste, yadda yadda - but Sac Pie already has a full-time job, such as it is, and other leisure pursuits besides eating. Please don't act all surprised about that.

So far, I'm able to make three decisions: I will use the backyard lemons, and look for the recipe that maximizes lemons (counting the juice and the zest this took four); I will use the standard pie crust for the tart shell (just to see what happens); and I will not strive for a low-fat, cooking-light recipe but start out with the full schmear - eggs, butter, sugar. Based on the outcome, I will modify the recipe if needed, because I will still have a thousand lemons.

So all I need is a recipe for the tart filling. This is not going to be lemon meringue pie, no no no. Sac Pie does not do lemon meringue. This filling is going to be something between a lemon curd and lemon sauce - soft but firm, viscous and low-rise, not stiff and airy like lemon pudding. It seems wise to pre-bake the shell because 1) the filling is delicate and, loaded with sugar, prone to scorching, and 2) the liquidy filling will be less likely to make the bottom of the shell turn mushy if it's baked first.

Here we go.

I followed this recipe, which I found at David Lebovitz's site, www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2009/05/tart_au_citron_french_lemon_tart.html.

This one looked the simplest and the least sugary and finicky to me. Because I'd never made a lemon tart before, I figured I ought to start with the simple approach and build some confidence before going for something more elaborate. And if David Lebovitz can make a delicious tart with egg yolks that have been in suspended animation in his freezer for a few months, odds are good that a novice's will come out okay. Right?

If you are using a standard 9.5-inch tart pan, I would advise doubling the recipe below, otherwise you end up with barely enough filling to make the dessert not just low-rise but, er, thin. To the point of stingy. Not especially enticing.

Are you ready?

Ingredients:

1/2 cup (125 ml) freshly-squeezed lemon juice  

grated zest of one lemon, preferably unsprayed 

1/2 cup (100 g) sugar  

6 tablespoons (85 g) butter, salted or unsalted, cut into bits

 2 large eggs 

2 large egg yolks

One 9-inch (23 cm) tart shell.

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350F (180C.)

NOTE: If you pop the tart shell into the oven at 350 degrees F to bake until golden, you can have the custard filling ready to go into it at the exact time that it is finished baking - about 20 minutes.

1. In a medium-sized non-reactive saucepan, heat the lemon juice, zest, sugar, and butter. Have a mesh strainer nearby.

2. In a small bowl, beat together the eggs and the yolks.

3. When the butter is melted, whisk some of the warm lemon mixture into the eggs, stirring constantly, to warm them. Scrape the warmed eggs back into the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and almost begins to bubble around the edges.

 4. Pour the lemon curd though a strainer directly into the pre-baked tart shell, scraping with a rubber spatula to press it through.

 5. Smooth the top of the tart and pop it in the oven for five minutes, just to set the curd.

6. Remove from the oven and let cool before slicing and serving.

That was easy! A dusting of confectioner's sugar and a few twists of fresh lemon on top, a sprig of mint, perhaps, and you are off to the races with this simple, elegant confection. Or skip the decorating and just slice into it. Your pastry shell should be firm enough to hold up the dense, silky curd. The filling made with this recipe was balanced between sweet and tart; if you like it more tart, you can reduce the sugar. In the picture directly below, you can see the little flecks of lemon zest in the curd and get a sense of the smooth consistency of its surface.

This was one of Sac Pie's homelier-looking works, mainly because it was an experiment that we were prepared to throw out if it didn't work. But it works just fine. We will double the filling and dress it up when we make it for Susan's ranch picnic this weekend.

If you have some lemons to use up, this is an easy and delicious way to enjoy their freshness. Let me know how you do with your version of this tart.

Pie Spy - Sugar Plum Vegan

2010-03-24T10:31:00.000-07:00

We had cruised Sugar Plum Vegan's web site (http://www.sugarplumvegan.com/) a few weeks ago to see what was up with their new shop opening at 2315 K Street. The web site told us that they were open, but a drive-by shortly thereafter gave us contradictory data. So on a recent sunny Friday, we decided to check in again.

The shop occupies the space that had been True Love Coffee House, Sanaa, and Jasmine in recent years - it's a white Victorian next door to Hina's in Midtown. The interior has been modified slightly to brighten it up and make the small rooms seem less busy. Baked goods are prominently displayed at the counter, where you can order breakfasts, salads, soups, sandwiches, and other eats. Every item on the menu is vegan. Sugar Plum also offers some gluten-free items.

I looked into the display case for the pie, but saw only cookies, muffins, and scones. The pies and cakes are in a cylindrical display case all their own, up near the front window. This is the kind of pie cabinet that diners and old-time bakeries have, with shelves that rotate. However, all the pies and cakes were stationary on our visit. The case held a tantalizing array of stuff on that day: apple pie, with either crumb or pastry topping; apple-granola crisp with raspberry; peanut butter mousse pie, and beautifully decorated deep chocolate cake. I have to say, the cakes were very pretty compared to the pies. What, exactly, is in a vegan frosting that makes it look and behave like butter cream frosting?

I am beginning to think of apple pie as the litmus-test pie for Pie Spy's eating-out adventures. It was certainly the most attractive pie in the case -- so I ordered a slice. There was only one of each variety of pie and cake in the case, which made me wonder whether you could purchase a whole pie there without ordering ahead.

While vegan frosting and cupcakes may be a bit of a challenge, vegan fruit pie is not much of a stretch. Still, I wanted to see for myself what Sugar Plum's vegan version was like.

Sugar Plum's apple pie slice was generously sized (at $3.95 a slice). Full of thinly sliced, almost crisp pieces of apple, and very gently seasoned with cinnamon and nutmeg. The filling was exactly moist enough. The pastry of this slice was very white, although not underbaked. It felt a little bit granular rather than flaky, and a little bit sticky. I think both of these attributes have to do with the type of shortening (fat, for lack of a better word) used. I find that certain shortenings do take quite awhile to brown. A cup of coffee would be the perfect accompaniment to this rendition of apple pie to help with that feel of stickiness.

While this slice held no surprises or revelations, it had a welcome home-made quality and it celebrated the apples, rather than drowning out their freshness by overloading the spice.

We sat in sunshine on the patio and enjoyed our dessert, one big fat delicious forkful at a time. Next time, we will have the Pie Spy Camera handy, we promise. By all means make a visit to Sugar Plum if you are in the mood for dessert but want to feel virtuous about it afterwards. [And if you don't want to virtuous about it, go across the street to Rick's Dessert Diner.]

And - of course! - tell them Pie Spy sent you. We will be waiting for your report.

P.S. On our last trip to the Davis Food Co-Op, we spied a placard that read "DFC is pleased to supply pies to Sugar Plum Vegan, Sacramento's new vegan restaurant." This calls for further investigation!

Pie Spy In Los Angeles

2010-03-19T12:11:00.000-07:00

When you’re in LA, treading those boulevards of dreams, and you want to sit down and have something sweet, where ya gonna go?

Your Pie Spy visited several iconic establishments throughout the city, some of them better known for other selections than for pie. This turned into a mini urban pie safari. The featured stops along the way included these:

Musso and Frank (www.mussoandfrankgrill.com)

The Original Pantry (www.pantrycafe.com)

Clifton’s Brookdale (www.cliftoncafeteria.com)

And Pea Soup Andersen’s, on the way home, in Buellton (www.peasoupandersens.net).

There was no pie at the Pacific Dining Car, none at the Nickel Diner, or Rincon Criollo, or Tender Greens, or – understandably – at the Formosa Café.

Obviously there are many, many more pie venues in the big city than these, but there were other missions on the urban safari besides eating all the pie we could. It can get overwhelming if you don’t bite off small pieces.

Among these pies, Musso and Frank's apple pie (pictured above) was notable for being the thickest and being served on the prettiest china. Not a fancy restaurant, but it was a standout for the ambience. The fare at M &F is traditional, and maybe even plain. But eating pie where stars have dined – maybe even at our table! - has its own sparkly charm.

The Original Pantry’s apple pie (shown above) came warm and dressed with cinnamon sauce, which wasn’t mentioned on the menu, but turned out to be an interesting embellishment. It was $3.95 a slice, or $1.25 extra if you wanted ice cream with it. (But pretty good without!) That place is always hopping, and you might decide well before you’re hungry to go there – there is often a line out the door.

Clifton’s Brookdale had cherry pie as well as apple, but Pie Spy was tired of apple pie by the time we got there. The cherry (below) was the winner in the price category, at a bargain-licious $2.39 per slice. Tart fruit and buttery pastry. Home/cafeteria cooking that is hard to find in our own part of California. You gotta go to Clifton’s to experience the crazy décor as well as the pie. Notice the moose head and the fancy forest wall decoration, with tree trunk in the right foreground.

And let us not forget Pea Soup Andersen’s. It has been there by the highway so long that maybe you don’t even notice it anymore. Choices of food stops along the road are generally not very good for you. Pea Soup Andersen’s, however, is a welcome alternative to the burgers, pizzas, and chicken buckets. The eponymous soup is vegetarian and very, very delicious, full of protein, and just eating it makes us feel calmer. The copper-topped tables and the non-truck-stop lighting also make you feel more civilized. If you’re not into green soup, try the salad, and if you’ve had enough pie for one week, order a chocolate milk shake. Then you will have the courage to keep on driving. The pie was warm, but as you can see from the picture below, it was a little bit oozy. We neglected to inquire about the makeup of the pastry, but I believe it is vegetable shortening–based. In my opinion it is not quite as good as homemade pie, but even so one should be grateful that pie is anywhere to be had out there on the freeway. And we were very grateful!

The inaugural SoCal Pie Spy mission was a big success. When I can get back into the skinny jeans, I'll be ready for the second phase.

Pi Alert - Do Not Panic!

2010-03-10T13:58:00.000-08:00

Today's Sacramento Bee claims that this Sunday (March 14) is Pi Day - not to be confused with January 23, which you all know now to be bona fide Pie Day. Here we at Sac Pie are just getting rolling, so to speak, with Pie Day, and the media are already trying to dilute our sacred holiday. Of course, if you feel you need another day with the "pi" syllable in it in order to have an excuse to bake, maybe that's all for the good.

The Bee, having missed the boat in January, tried to recover today with a full-page spread (page D4) touting 'easy' pie recipes with 'shortcut' and 'cheater' ingredients for the weekend Pi festivities. Hmmmmm. Beware of no-bakes with cream cheese and peanut butter! There must be a pie analogue to "either fish or cut bait," I just haven't figured it out yet. I mean, if you're going to make pie, i.e., expend effort to create something fresh and good, don't make pi. Pie is worth your effort.

To be fair, on the Mailbox page (D7), the Bee has published a clip and save recipe for "high top apple pie." No shortcuts or cheating with this recipe. It has a very different pastry that includes eggs, butter, and superfine sugar, and calls for kneading and chilling the pastry before rolling it out. Sounds like it might be fun to try - who will be first to report back to us on results? But does it really have 102 milligrams of cholesterol per serving as published, and 36 percent of its 496 calories from fat? Wow! Might want to take tiny forkfuls and go slowly with this one.

Wouldn't it have been great if someone could have concocted a recipe for Pi Day that has 3.14159265 fat grams or weighs 3.14 pounds (give or take) when it's done?

Or is that just the nerd in me talking?

You can email Teri Watson at twatson@sacbee.com, and visit www. sacbee.com for the full "high top" apple pie recipe, and others if you feel a craving for Covert Cookie Pi. Me, I've got the real thing going in the oven today. Stay tuned.

Pie of the Week - Cranberry Pie Deux

2010-03-07T15:31:00.000-08:00

Winter's almost over and I still have two bags of cranberries in the freezer. I know, I said I would attempt cranberry pie again after that shaky and barely palatable first attempt. Lessons learned, as they say in corporate life. I'll do it better this time!

If you were not tuned in during the post-Thanksgiving cranberry pie experiment, let me just give you the bottom line again:

Cranberries are SOUR. Their sourness will dominate any other flavor note in the filling unless you curb it with even more sugar than you think. If you don't get the sugar right, no one will taste the citrus, apple, pear, or cinnamon, or clove, or whatever other delightful accessory flavors you were so excited about. And your guests will not be able to force a full serving of this pie down, because their faces will be turning inside out with pucker. Sac Pie has already run this experiment so you don't have to. Trust me!

Cranberries impart terrific health benefits to us along with that puckerful punch that makes your jaws lock up. Loaded with vitamin C and antioxidants, very hardy and relatively non-perishable, they can make a great addition to your dessert repertoire if you handle them right. They need to be cooked and sweetened in order to be palatable. Just writing this is making my eyes water...

Sac Pie began with friend Kim's cranberry relish recipe again, and this time was in possession of several estate-grown oranges with which to add flavorful sophistication to the pie filling.

The cranberries, frozen, as I said, were thawed and then rinsed gently. I hewed closely to the original recipe, namely combining

1 c. orange juice

1 c (organic cane juice) sugar

2 tsp ground cinnamon

1.5 tsp clove

1 T minced fresh ginger plus a strip of dried sliced ginger (removed after cooking)

1/2 c golden raisins

in a saucepan on the stove. I boiled the juice until the sugar was dissolved. Then I added the cranberries and other ingredients and cooked it just until everything was combined. I cooled the mixture for about 2 hours.

The spicing and additional fruit is completely up to you. All will be well if you just remember that the critical thing is the sweetener (we can run the experiment next season with brown rice syrup or honey). In this incarnation, in addition to the cranberries, I used 1 chopped apple and about a T of orange zest in the filling (after it had cooled).

After adding the sugar-spice combination to the cranberries and mixing, I sprinkled in a scant teaspoon of tapioca for a thickener.

Voila! A carnival in a pie shell. Maybe for Mardi Gras or Valentine's Day next year?

A few pats of butter, a full pie lid, and into the oven at 400 degrees for 50 minutes.

This time, the pie filling was much more temperate and sparkly in flavor, rather than aggressively tart and borderline obnoxious. I liked having the apple chunks and the raisins for textural variety. The seasoning really does remind me of the mince pie combination. I completely forgot my note-to-self from last fall about adding a little booze. I think that amaretto or kirsch would be an interesting note. But even foregoing that, I think the combination really comes together as a result of the sugar to buffer the acidity of the cranberries.

Don't forget to try the recipe above as a cranberry relish, which is its origin, after all. And thank you again, Kim, for getting me started on this. I can cater you a slice, if you like!

Pie Spy - Freeport Bakery and the Knish Delish

2010-02-27T10:52:00.000-08:00

One of Pie Spy’s favorite places in the whole Sacramento Valley is Freeport Bakery at 2966 Freeport Boulevard (www.freeportbakery.com). We here at SacPie are not so into “cute” as a lifestyle choice, so that’s not why we love Freeport Bakery (although you could not ask for a more charming bakery storefront). We love it because their commitment to excellence is evident everywhere you look, and in every bite. We love it because it is a place where you can not only buy delicious things to eat but you can sit down and eat them, with real plates, knives, and forks, and enjoy a good cup of coffee too. We love it because it has clearly and deservedly become a mainstay of its neighborhood. We love it because it is a short walk from our house. Of course, we love it for the beautifully made, proudly displayed, and extravagant pies on offer. We will get to the pies soon.

But they really hooked us with the knishes.

Freeport Bakery’s take on vegetable knishes is a total departure from anything you may have previously consumed that called itself knish. The conventional deli knish we have experienced only comes in one variety – potato. PieSpy has scoped them in local deli cases - brownish bricks that look like square corn dogs – the kind you’re supposed to dip in mustard. They've been frozen too long, and maybe thawed out too soon. They aren’t appetizing to look at, and feel pretty much like bricks once they are ingested.

Scan the web for knish data and you will find recipes for fish, pastrami, cheese, chicken, and other hearty fillings, surrounded by dough made with chicken fat, or with puff pastry, Kosher, not Kosher, and on and on. Many of these seem beyond substantial and into ‘dense.’ Never having had the experience of knishes in a genuine New York Jewish deli, I cannot say what makes a store-bought knish authentic (although a tiny voice inside tells me the brown bricks are NOT). And never having had a Jewish grandmother, I have no experience of home-made knishes either.

Anyone out there making their own knishes at home?

At Freeport Bakery, if you ask for the knish, what you will receive is a glorious, ethereal, miniature self-contained vegetable pie on a small china plate. You will not see them in the bakery cases, but usually one is displayed on the counter to the left of the entry door. They cost about $3.95 each. Just ask. Your odds of success will be higher if you get there earlier in the day.

I have not inquired as to whether these knishes are kosher, but I'm sure someone at the counter can let you know, if you are interested.

You can re-heat them for a minute or so in the Bakery’s microwave, and then enjoy them hot right there. I have tried many times to get the temperature just right with their 1980's-era nuker, but the filling becomes either scalding hot or remains too cold, and you don't want to ruin that beautiful pastry crust. Maybe you will have better luck if you can take a few home with you cold, and heat them up later in a 300-degree oven. Be advised, though, even your best mustard would be an insult on this gorgeous little pie. It needs no extras.

The crust is both decorative and appetizing; firm enough to hold the insides in, but light and buttery. A little cutout leaf or nut made of dough adorns the egg-glazed top. The knish has the look and aroma of a fancy French savory pie. About 3 inches in diameter, it is best enjoyed, and deserves to be enjoyed, on a plate and eaten with a fork. This knish is flaky and too civilized to be eaten while you are driving or – you know who you are – standing over the kitchen sink.

Inside, the knish is filled with an aromatic combination of mashed and finely minced vegetables – potatoes as well as carrots, mushrooms, broccoli, onion (or perhaps leek), and a delicate array of herbs. The filling is velvety yet all the ingredients are identifiable. On the plate, the knish may look small, but it eats big. One knish can be a satisfying breakfast or lunch for one person – decadent, but with vegetables.

Freeport Bakery’s knish will make you want to throw rocks at other knishes commonly on offer in stores. They are so satisfying that you may say, “to hell with baking knishes myself!” If so, make sure you get to Freeport Bakery before I do. Or call ahead and request a special order.

Sac Pie Travels

2010-02-19T15:13:00.000-08:00

Sac Pie was on hiatus after the Pie Day eat-a-thon, looking for pies in tropical places. This was my challenge from my friend Lynn. It was technically infeasible to blog while on the high seas in the Tropic of Capricorn. And to my dismay, there was a paucity of pie in all ports visited.

The best we did was a slice of key lime pie on the good ship Liberty after dinner on Friday night. It was a dainty slice, garnished only with a slice of fresh lime, but still - it's key lime pie. Much, much too sweet, a one-trick pony of a pie. Nobody else at the table even wanted to try it. Or even take a picture.

By now Sac Pie has made our predilections very clear:

- freedom from goo

- freedom from synthetic ingredients

- organic as much as possible

- satisfying as a meal

- fresh and whole-food biased

- naturally sweet as much as possible

- flaky crusts, especially on top

- seasonal fruit biased

So if we check most of those boxes with any pie we sample abroad, we consider the outing a big success. If we check all the boxes, we bring some home for "research." That's what we call it.

The best pie we had in our travels was the guava-cheese empanada at La Carreta (www.lacarreta.com), the bakery side of the Cuban restaurant in the Miami International Airport (terminal D). Two of them for $4.00 was a bargain. The guava paste was layered in with a slice of a cotijo-style cheese in an extremely flaky, egg-glazed turnover. So it had a dual identity as breakfast or dessert (and that is very important). This was the best consolation I have ever had for a long, dreary afternoon in an airport at the end of a tropical vacation. The empanada was so good that it was gone before it could be photographed. It is also the kind of empanada that you have to eat standing up, preferably outdoors or over the sink, because the crackling flakes go everywhere as you take each luscious bite.

La Carreta has a devoted following for their authentic Cuban entrees as well as their bakery. They have seven other restaurants in the Miami area (and not just in Little Havana). You can read reviews online, too; at least one said it's only airport food they ever eat. The fare at La Carreta will make you, probably, want to throw rocks at Au Bon Pain, Sbarro Pizza, and all that other non-food in the airport. In fact it might be worthwhile to fly into Miami just to go to La Carreta! The place was packed all afternoon, and the aromas were intriguing.

Pie Spy - Fat Apple's Restaurant & Bakery

2010-01-31T17:20:00.000-08:00

A road trip to Berkelely on the last Friday of January necessitated some Pie Spying.

In San Francisco Magazine's January issue, we had read a short blurb about Fat Apple's. Fat Apple's is a breakfast-lunch spot - actually two spots: the home location at 7525 Fairmount Avenue in El Cerrito, and 1346 Martin Luther King, Jr. Way in Berkeley. They have a range of salad, soup, sandwiches, and hot entrees, but what really hooks us is the full bakery case. Fat Apple's makes scones, cookies, pastries, cakes, and you-know-what, under the masterful watch of Hildegard Marshall, the founder and owner.

At the Fairmount Avenue location, the skylit, barrel-vaulted interior (a former grocery store, our hostess told us) is dominated by a very large, square oven situated in the very middle of the building. The oven is probably close to 15 feet on each side. Our hostess explained that this oven runs 24-7 during the holidays, when the place pumps out pies non-stop (especially pumpkin). Although it was well past the peak of lunch hour (and traditional bakers' hours) when we visited, there were still at least a dozen workers visibly hustling around the place. By the way, pie crusts are made with butter, and also with love and skill.

There is a diner counter and tables for 80 or so people. Reproductions of Wayne Thiebaud pictures, as well as other, temporary exhibits by artists, adorn the walls.

Fat Apple's most widely acclaimed favorite pie is the ollalieberry, shown below:

You can choose from several flavors of pie, if ollalieberry is not what you came for. There was a slice of lofty lemon meringue going by as we ordered lunch. The chocolate creme pie looked as dense and dark as chocolate mousse. The apple pie was puffed up, and my imagination ran wild. Just for the sake of research, we ordered a slice of the cherry pie after a filling lunch of spinach salad and a portobello mushroom sandwich (both pretty good).

Pie by the slice is $4.25. You could purchase a whole fruit pie there for $17.00 (and be very happy).

The pie slice comes unadorned with whip or ice cream. Which is good, because usually I forget to request that these be deleted. Despite the neon-red color of the filling, I could tell this was no institutional pie. The cherries were tart, firm, and still individually imbued with flavor. The red matrix in which they floated was pleasantly sweet and a little bit thick, but never gooey, chemical, or dominating. It was definitely more cherries than red gel. I could tell that the crust had been made with butter because of the distinct flavor note as well as the flaky, light texture as I broke it - in my delicate way - with the fork. I had to increase the shutter speed on my camera, because this piece was of the stealthy, now-you-see-it-now-you-don't variety. It disappeared in what seems like a flash!

The finishing touch to our Fat Apple's experience was the receipt. Pie Spy finds wisdom in unexpected places. Be sure to read below the bottom line. That's what I'm talking about.

Post-Pie Party 2010

2010-01-27T11:07:00.000-08:00

Do I detect a slight bowing of the table legs under the weight of all those pies?

Estate-grown pecans from Clarksburg were the star of the pecan pie.

SacPie's first annual Pie Party pix are in. By my count, we had about 0.8 pies per guest. Yes, that is - truly - a lot of pie.

Above, Kim's veggie pot pie following the Food Network recipe I cited last week. With fennel - doesn't it look great? And it was absolutely a hit. Also on the savory table were a potato-cheese gallette, broccoli-mushroom quiche, a second, different veggie pot pie (Jim), impossible seafood pie (Linda), a mushroom frittata (Kim), a beautiful Waldorf salad (Linda), and a tasty green salad with homemade croutons (Amy). All devoured. Next time, I will have to hang a sign that reminds eaters to save room for dessert.

Below, Mark's homemade samosas, reheating on the stove. Although my plan was to send everyone home with extras, there were none of these left within about 15 minutes of this photo. The filling was all-vegetables, with characteristic Indian flavorings. And the dipping sauce was a quince chutney contributed by none other than Sacatomato's Lynn Gowdy.

Here you can see how difficult it was to work one's way down the dessert table. There are only six pies shown above, but there were two more out of the frame. We had two pumpkin (Amy, Kim), one double-chocolate (Celia), one Linzer torte, one sweet-potato (Pat), apple-mince, an estate-grown pecan (Linda), and gluten-free apple (Sid). The gluten-free apple was the baker's first-ever pie, and he infused the filling not only with cinnamon but anise and fennel seed. The crust was made with rice flour -very tasty.

Why was it that we bought all that ice cream?

The seasonal abundance of Northern California was represented at the Pie Party in some spectacular small-label wines, home-grown almonds, a pie made with a garden pumpkin, and fresh-squeezed lemonade.

My thanks and appreciation go out to everyone who came, for sharing their recipes and spending time with us. If you did not get a chance to grab the recipes for the pies at our party, please let me know and I'll make them available.

Meanwhile here at SacPie, we have pie leftovers coming out our ears:

Based on the success of our First Annual Pie Party, I will be planning others for the spring and fall. Why not organize your own to showcase the apricots, peaches, cherries, and berries that will be ready in June? May I appropriate Slow Food's word, convivium, to apply to this and all future Pie Party gatherings in our town?

Create, Make, Taste, Eat, Share - It's Pie Day!

2010-01-23T11:33:00.000-08:00

(hey, sis, thanks for remembering Pie Day and baking the date right into your pie.)

It's the day we've been waiting for ALL YEAR LONG: National Pie Day! What could bring more smiles around the table in the deep murk of midwinter, than a pie made with the natural bounty of our Sacramento Valley home? Maybe you have even stashed away some of last summer's harvest in the freezer, to make a peach-blueberry or apricot-ginger confection. Or perhaps Pie Day has caught you by surprise, again, and - well - there is so much that needs to be done. Then the thing to do is to get yourself a beautiful pie from one of the local pie purveyors. Any way you slice it, it's THE DAY for pie.

To paraphrase one of my dad's favorite expressions, you should only eat pie if you're alone, or with somebody.

“When you die, if you get a choice between going to regular heaven or pie heaven, choose pie heaven. It might be a trick, but if it's not, mmmmmmmm, boy.” So said Jack Handy.

Next-best things to eating pie:

Ask for suggestions about the next one you'll make.
Go to the Wayne Thiebaud Works on Paper exhibit at the Sac State Library Gallery, 10 to 5 Tuesday through Saturday, through March 6, to look at his drawings and prints of pie, other confections, and urban landscapes.
Ask a baker friend or relative to teach you how to make pie from scratch.
Teach your child the ABCs using pie fillings or names (I challenge you with H through J and U through Z).
Make up a pie anthem (there is a very good one out there for cheese; why not pie?) and send it to SacPie; we'll post the best one!
Start planning for next year's Annual Pie Party - save the date!

Friends, however you plan to enjoy your Pie Day, I hope you will share it with SacPie. Stay tuned for our Pie Party 2010 pics and pies.

Pie of the Week - Vegetable Pot Pie

2010-01-18T11:44:00.000-08:00

It's WINTER. It's RAINING. It's time for Pie That's A Meal.

Vegetable Pot Pie may be a cure, or at least a palliative, for the Sacramento Winter Blahs.

Unfortunately, I have not yet found a local sit-down eatery that serves vegetarian pot pies. You can buy individual-sized ones at the Sacramento Natural Foods Co-Op (www.sacfoodscoop.com) to bring home and heat up in your own oven, if that's convenient for you. But it's not difficult to prepare your own with what you already have in the house.

Winter vegetables like potatoes, butternut squash, turnips, and carrots are abundant here in the Sacramento Valley in the winter farmer's market stands. They are also extremely durable, which means you can take your time figuring out how and when you're going to eat them. The only down side of root vegetables and squashes is that they are bland as baby food when prepared by themselves. This is one reason a lot of people claim to detest them. Our Pie of the Week aims for an alchemical combination of these nutritious and plentiful staples in a hearty, double-crust savory pie. In addition to staving off the Blahs, it may also make converts of the non-root-vegetable-eating members of your household. Paired with a fresh green salad, this makes a satisfying dinner or brunch item. A side of cranberry sauce might make you come out of your funk and feel festive.

If you search the web for vegetable pot pie recipes, as I have, you will find a bazillion of them. Some include beans, or cheese, or noodles, or spinach, or tofu. You can customize the filling in a number of distinct but satisfying ways. Whatever your choices, 6 cups of filling is a good target amount. The common denominator of these recipes is that you pre-cook small pieces of whatever vegetables you plan to put in the pie, coat the vegetables with a little flour, and then add broth and a milk to create the sauce - or gravy- that is one of the most joyous sensations about eating a pot pie. We're doing this one vegan, but you could substitute real milk and butter where I've used soy milk and Earth Balance.

Note: there will be quite a lot of peeling and chopping - maybe 30 minutes' worth. But it is RAINING, and you are not going outdoors anyway.

You could certainly opt for a less-crusty version of this by spooning the prepared vegetable filling into individual pots (or one big pie dish) and doing only a top crust. But to me that sounds like it might result in messy cleanup work (both the pots and the bottom of the oven). SacPie rocks the double crust. We need those calories for hibernation, and we never, ever want to clean the oven.

This recipe is a riff on the Food Network recipe from Aida Mollenkamp (http://www.foodnetwork.com/). I had some butternut squash, already steamed, in the fridge. I had turnips, a leek, some Yukon Gold potatoes, celery, carrots, garlic, and a big bunch of Italian parsely. I had broth from cooking beet greens and some dried porcini mushrooms to infuse the broth. I did not include fennel or peas or chives, but only because I didn't have them in the house when it was time to make pie.

Ingredients:

1 T unsalted butter or Earth Balance

2 small heads of fennel (or 2 sticks of celery), finely chopped (about 3 c.) - OPTIONAL

1/2 medium yellow onion (or one leek), finely chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped (about 2/3 c.)
12 oz. fresh mushrooms, sliced (about 5 c.)
1 small Russet potato peeled and diced small (about 2 1/2 c.)
1 small turnip peeled and diced small

1/4 c. all-purpose flour
1 c. vegetable broth (warmed)
1 c. milk (or plain soy milk)
1 c. frozen baby green peas - OPTIONAL
1/4 c. thinly sliced fresh chives (or whatever your herb choices are)
1/4 c. parsley
1 T white vinegar
1 large egg yolk, beaten with 2 tsp of water - OPTIONAL
1 double-crust pie dough

OTHER OPTIONAL HERBS: sage, thyme, bay leaf, chipotle powder, rosemary

Directions:

Heat the oven to 400 degrees and arrange a rack in the middle.

Melt the butter/EB over medium heat in a 3- to 4- quart pan. When it foams, add the fennel, onion, carrots, (garlic, leek, celery, turnip) and cook until just soft and onions are translucent. Add mushrooms and potato (also bay leaf and/or rosemary sprig, if using. These should be removed when the filling is finished cooking). Season well with salt and pepper, stirring to coat. Remember that root vegetables tend to use more salt. Cook, stirring rarely, until mushrooms have let off water and are shrunken, about 6 min.

Sprinkle flour over the vegetables, stir to coat, and cook until the raw flavor is gone, about 1-2 min. Add broth and milk gradually, stirring constantly until the mixture is smooth. Bring to simmer over medium heat, cooking until slightly thickened, about 5 min. Remove from heat. Add peas (or canned beans or edamame), herbs, and vinegar, stirring to coat. Taste to correct seasoning.

Pour the filling into a 9-in pie crust. Place the top crust over filling and seal. Brush dough with egg wash (optional) and cut slits in the top crust. Bake until crust is golden brown and mixture is bubbling, about 25-30 min. Let stand at least 5 min before serving. I know it will be hard to wait that long, but restrain yourself.

I baked this pie for about 40 minutes in order to get a browner crust. One of the things I've learned about the palm oil shortening crust recipe is that it is slow to brown, but difficult to overcook.

The pie filling cooks to a compact, moist endpoint. Individual chunks of potato, squash, turnip, and carrot are still identifiable but blend creamily with the gravy. The taste was as close as I've come yet to the filling in Freeport Bakery's knishes (http://www.freeportbakery.com/), which are elegant and delicious (and the subject of a future blog). One generous slice of this pie and a side of steamed broccoli was a substantial, comforting dinner. I nearly forgot that it was raining.

Let me know how the Winter Blahs, and the winning of the hearts, minds, and palates of your vegetable objectors is going after you make this.

Pie of the Week - Apple

2010-01-08T11:39:00.000-08:00

I have never met anyone who expressed a dislike of apple pie. Maybe because it feels subversively un-American to voice such nonsense. But I think, on the contrary, that almost everyone who has eaten a good apple pie finds something in it to love.

Apples, of course, were one of the least perishable and abundant fruits available to the white settlers of the United States. Today, 60% of all apples raised commercially in the U.S. come from Washington state. And the U.S. is the second largest producer of apples worldwide, after China.

As to the pie, I consider apple pie a playground for experimentation because of the varied but gentle flavoring of the fruit. Endless possibilities can be explored - a different mix of apples, addition of dried fruit or chopped nuts, a crumble topping instead of crust, pouring heavy cream through the slits in the crust after the pie comes out of the oven. In southern Ohio, homemade apple pie was offered to me warmed with a small slice of melted cheddar on top. That variation becomes an apple-cheese gallette when you bake the cheese on top in a tart pan, without an upper crust.

And when, in my 30s, I discovered that I could warm up a slice of apple pie in the toaster oven, pour some milk over it, and make it my breakfast on a hostile winter morning - well! It changed my life. Not only because I felt like I was getting away with something naughty, but because knowing that there was apple pie out in the kitchen was singularly motivating when it came to getting me out of a warm bed and waking to the cold world. Apple pie is wintertime pie for me.

So, I've made the point that apple pie can be different every time you make it. Take some time to explore variations on the theme so you can decide whether you have a favorite.

I am a big fan of the old reliable, Betty-Crocker variety template - a double-crust pie with nothing but sliced apples, cinnamon, sugar, and a little bit of flour in the filling. This is the pie of childhood and it never disappoints, even if the crust is ugly (as it turned out today).

There are many new apple hybrids out there in the stores and farmer's markets, which I am certain have their merits - HoneyCrisp, Fuji, Braeburn, Gala, and on and on. Many of these are grown just outside the Sacramento Valley in the Apple Hill area. I have not tried a pie with any of these. My preference is for a slightly tart apple that has little juice, so I look for MacIntosh as a first choice. When I can't find those, I go for Granny Smiths. Granny Smiths don't cook down much. I love their firmness and the snap of their tartness. The Macs are good not only for pie, but for applesauce too. But they are a little juicier, and tend to reduce as they bake, yielding a creamier consistency. Macs have the slight disadvantage of being less abundant in Northern California markets in the winter months. This is an apple that hails from Ontario, Canada and was in my lunch box pretty regularly when I was a kid. The Macs today tend to have an overly tough skin, but a crisp white interior and great appley-ness.

I have never pretended to be an expert baker, and you don't need to be in order to make a terrific, flavorful apple pie. The main points are 1) make sure the apple slices, or chunks, are of a uniform size for even cooking, 2) press down on the mound of apples slightly to compact and settle them into a symmetrical domed shape, and 3) add a little starch of some sort to the filling in order to prevent the dreaded wet pie syndrome. This could be a tablespoon of flour, or a little less of cornstarch, or tapioca, mixed in well with the sugar and cinnamon. Bake it until the crust is golden and you see bubbles of fruity steam coming out the vents.

You can make an apple pie in the hour after dinner and have a warm slice of it before bed. Or, better yet, just skip making dinner and go directly to pie.

Happy New Year! Countdown to National Pie Day!

2010-01-01T13:23:00.000-08:00

National Pie Day is only 22 days away. Will you be ready?

SacPie's first annual Pie Night Party will include sweet and savory pies of all shapes and sizes. Anything stuffed and baked in an unleavened dough envelope qualifies as "pie." We will have a pie-making demo for any fearful and curious bakers among the guests. There will be salads and drinks, recipe swapping, a pie exchange, and a pie contest. Not a pie-eating contest, but a pie-tasting contest, with a growing number of categories. Best Pie to Eat All By Yourself In the Middle of the Night, Easiest Recipe, Weirdest Ingredients, et cetera...And I think we will have a winner in every category.

Almost as soon as I announced the Pie Night Party, the invitees expressed excitement about it. Some confided that they had lost touch with the art of making good crust and are motivated to re-learn. Others expressed a nuttiness for pie. Still others said they had recipes they'd been wanting to try.

Winter is a good time for a Pie Night Party - a warm kitchen filling the house with enticing aromas, eating something delicious that is still warm as you spoon it into your mouth, people gathered in a comfortable space on a chilly night...These all seem like ingredients for a successful party, and pie is the host and guest of honor.

I still casting about for more entertainments - ones that include, or at least don't interfere with, eating - so if you have any ideas, I invite you to share them with us. As SacPie's inaugural Pie Night, we want to get it right and make everyone want to come back for more. Perhaps you should get busy planning your own Pie Night (I won't be able to fit everybody at my place). What will make your Pie Night uniquely yours?

See what the American Pie Council is doing to promote Pie Day at piecouncil.org.

Pie Spy - Dad's Kitchen

2009-12-21T16:37:00.001-08:00

I have two stories to relate about Dad's Kitchen and its pie offerings. Check out http://www.ediblesacramento.com/content/index.php/winter-2009/comfort-food.htm for a capsule review of what Dad's is all about.

Dad's Kitchen, at 2968 Freeport Boulevard in Sacramento, was written up in a local publication last summer for its excellent pies. I was not a Pie Spy then, but already a pie snob, so I had to check this out. It was the peak of fresh summer fruit season. Pies at Dad's were reportedly made in-house by a lady named Anne, and the word was that you had to get there early in the day if you wanted to sample her wares. How could this not be good?

Here's how: In July, I ordered a slice of Anne's pie to go, while I was still having lunch, from my very charmingly inked server. Lunch was very filling, mainly because we inhaled the Spuds of Joy, so I decided to save the pie (SOUR CHERRY!) for later. Apparently it took a few attempts to convey the pie order to the kitchen, during which several minutes went by. First, a generously sized slice of pie a la mode was delivered on a plate to the table. We hailed our charming server and reminded her that we had asked for the pie to go. The plate disappeared immediately into the kitchen, and we waited several more minutes. When the box finally arrived , we decided to check and take a look at it. Recall July? Hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk? The kitchen staff decided had scraped the original slice from the plate to a cardboard go-box ice cream and all, on one of the hottest days of the year. Upon discovering this lapse in culinary judgment, we returned the box to a server and explained, no ice cream. Whereupon several more interminable minutes went by, until at last, a dry slice of pie materialized. This slice was about half the size of the original piece, and in addition, it had sort of been mashed into the box. By then, a half-hour had elapsed since we ordered the pie, and I was questioning whether I really wanted it at all.

And to top that all off, it was a $7.00 piece of pie.

I will say that the sour cherry pie was very fresh, not overly sweet, and not gelatinous with thickener. And sour cherry pie is not all that common in restaurants, so just having it as a choice really scored some points with me. The crust was buttery, brown, and - where intact - very flaky and sturdy enough to stand up to the cooked fruit. But worth all the trouble?

Sheesh! This experience is one reason that SacPie was born. We can all improve upon pie experiences like that one, and you can have an entire, fresh pie, all to YOURSELF, for $7.00!

Pie Spy's more recent experience at Dad's Kitchen was an improvement. [Note: In addition to the fruit pie on offer, there are also two varieties of pot pie on the lunch menu. You could conceivably eat pie for your entree and pie for dessert. Not many places can offer you that!]

This past week, the fruit pie was apple. We ordered a piece as we were finishing lunch but decided to dine in with it. We experienced the same difficulty with getting the order placed. When you are waiting for a slice of pie, minutes seem much longer than, say, when you are waiting for a bus in the rain. One reason the order was taking so long, we later learned, is that they warm it up in a standard oven before serving it - nice on a cold Saturday.

The pie arrived with the very smooth and lovely vanilla bean ice cream in a separate bowl. I had forgotten to ask them to hold the ice cream, but now I'm glad I got it. Three compact little scoops of the stuff - a dessert serving all by itself. Apple pie is one of my favorites. This one had very thinly sliced apples, a full double crust, no other embellishments. As you can see, it was good looking as well - straightforward, like-home pie. There was some sugary, spicy brown stuff mixed into the apple filling, and the texture and flavor were pleasant. Just enough cinnamon to enhance the apple without overpowering it. I don't usually eat ice cream with my pie, and least of all vanilla, but the freshness of both made for a wonderful combination. It was still $7, but it seemed like money well spent this time.

The pies are now made in-house by one of Dad's servers, Maria. Anne has apparently moved on. Maria uses all butter for her crust. Be advised that there is only one flavor of fruit pie available each day, and if you want it, I would advise that you get there before 2 or 3 in the afternoon (Maria has other things to do besides bake pies all day) and order it before you start the second half of your sandwich (or pot pie), unless you don't mind lingering. Fruit pies are not offered on the printed menu; you'll need to ask your server, and be sure to tell them that the Pie Spy sent you.

Pie of the Week - Cranberry Pie

2009-12-13T16:42:00.000-08:00

This week - a pie and a bonus condiment!

Cranberries are in season and I was inspired by our Thanksgiving hostess, Kim, and her cranberry relish recipe to try to make a pie with it. After my first taste of her relish, I was reminded of a good mincemeat filling, but this was ever so slightly more tart and bright, both in flavor and color.

I've cooked cranberries perhaps twice in my entire life, both so long ago I barely remember how they turned out. It was an orange-noted conserve of some sort, which no one else would eat.

After the Quince Near-Debacle, I was feeling a little more cautious about this pie. Would the cranberries cook inside the pie crust and hold together when the pie was sliced? Or should I hedge my bets and follow Kim's recipe strictly, cooking the entire filling first? Would that liquid component all end up at the bottom of the pie in a gooshy mess? Would it be too sweet or too tart?

Would it be, you know, good?

The recipe for the filling (thank you, Kim!) was

2 packages of fresh cranberries

1 cup of orange juice

1 cup of sugar

to taste: raisins, chopped dried apricots, and other fruit (grated apple?) to taste (I used about a cup total of raisin and apricot)

to taste: cinnamon, grated or chopped fresh ginger (or powdered), clove

Kim's instruction for the relish calls for boiling the juice and sugar on the stove, and then adding the fruit and spices. This mixture would be cooked until the cranberries popped. Using the ingredients listed above, it's the best cranberry relish I've ever had.

For the pie filling, I opted for the following modifications:

1c. combined orange and cherry juice

1/2 c. sugar

1 tsp. each cinnamon, clove

I cooked the juice and sugar, adding about a tablespoon of chopped fresh ginger. I strained the ginger out and then poured the liquid over the cranberries, raisins, and apricots. I added a tablespoon of flour to the fruit mixture and stirred it in with about 1/2 tsp. of ground ginger.

I loaded all that into two 8" pie shells, topped it with a few pats of butter and a full top crust, and baked it for about 50 minutes. I used a hotter than normal temperature of 425 degrees, to make sure those cranberries really cooked. I watched, I brooded. It smelled nice.

This pie turned out better than I had reason to expect, based on my pie-on-the-fly mods to a recipe I'd never made. No, there was no pool of wet goo at the bottom. Yes, the cranberries cooked thoroughly and sufficiently to hold together upon slicing. As you can see, the pie has a bright crazy pink color - like strawberry-rhubarb pie - and distinct pieces of fruit with their own flavors and textures intact. It evokes a holiday mood and immediately induces good cheer, even before you bite into it.

I would do it all over again; however, next time, it needs the full cup of sugar. Yes, really. As constructed this week, it was pleasantly tart but almost at the edge of pleasantness for sensitive palates. A bit of ice cream would temper that very well if you need a foil for those cranberries. The spicing was a little too conservative in this pie - the ginger, cinnamon, and clove could be increased to 1.5 to 2 tsp. each. Fresh cranberries seem to easily overpower spice, so I don't think subtlety is what you're after. One modification that I will introduce next time is to add a splash of rum to the boiled liquids.

I can't think of too many fruit pie fillings that double as a chilled holiday condiment. I am thrilled that this recipe works for both. Do you have any other recipes like this to share? Sac Pie would love to hear from you!

About Sac Pie

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What prompted you to start a blog about something as humble as, well, pie?

It's true that I not only love good pie, but I may also be a bit of a pie snob. I've been looking for a good piece of pie ever since I moved to Sacramento 3 years ago and all that I've tried so far left something to be desired (which reminds me of a story of a slice of pie ordered to go...but I'll save that for the blog). Although I don't pretend to any expertise when it comes to making pies, I have reached a level of proficiency and appreciation for fine pie-making, and I want to see what we can do to get people creating and sharing great pies in Sacramento. Here, in the midst of the country's agricultural bounty, we can play with ingredients in season and invent new flavor combinations and really have some fun with what I consider an underappreciated element of American cookery.

How did you learn to make pie?

I learned at the elbows of my mom, her mom, and other moms when I was young. And then, I forgot it all and had to re-learn it from yet another mom when I was in my 30s.

My mom used the scraps from trimming the pie to make cinnamon-sugar pinwheels, which were always gone before we ever sliced into the pie.

Are you a professional baker?

No. But I am a professional.

What is your favorite kind of pie?

My favorite is blueberry with honey and lemon. If you do it right, it is like eating summer.

What are your greatest pie fears?

That there won't be enough left for breakfast; that by June, it will be too hot to bake a peach pie.

Butter or shortening?

Shortening. Organic palm oil shortening. I confess I am scared of butter.

What are the main elements of this blog?

Pie of the Week, in which we share the making of a new pie, or a new twist on an old recipe.

Pie Spy, a monthly feature in which we search the local area and the region for a place to go and enjoy fresh and well-made pies. I am also contemplating another feature with a punny name - maybe "Eyes on the Pies" or "A la Mode" or some such, where we relate news, stories, books, web-sightings, tastings, and information about the Sac Pie Scene. And of course, reader comments!

PIE OF THE WEEK - Quest for Quince!

2009-12-06T17:23:00.000-08:00

My friend Marina challenged me to make a pie of fresh quince and ground pasilla peppers. She thought the combination of flavors would be exotic, and quinces are in season right now, so she encouraged me to bust out of the comfort zone and experiment with new ingredients.

DEFINITELY OUT OF MY COMFORT ZONE. Although I've eaten quince paste (membrillo) in the Spanish style before, I had never knowingly eaten a quince that I had cooked myself. I wasn't even sure exactly how to cook them.

But rather than let all that deter me, or be dragged down by the experience of people who knew better, I bought five quinces (a quint of them), some pasilla powder, and then tried to figure out how to make a pie.

First, you peel. The peel is edible but tougher than an apple's, so I decided to leave it out. Then, you core. This part was difficult. It was much like cutting through a winter squash. The cores were surrounded by some hard, woody material that I resorted to digging out with a knife. And finally, you chop. I made chunks about 1/2" by 1/2".

At this point, I thought to myself, "Self, are you sure this fruit is ripe?" The self was really not sure. But there was all that raw material, cut up and oxidizing. So what could I do? I made pie. I added sugar, a pinch of salt, at teaspoon of cinnamon, and about 1 to 2 teaspoons of pasilla to the fruit. Honestly, I had no idea how this would turn out. The smoky-woody quality of the pasilla combined with the sharpness and familiar tang of the cinnamon to make something different from the sum of their parts. I thought that even if the fully baked result was not completely palatable it would at least be interesting.

The fruit and spice went into a double crust pie in a PYREX pie pan, like Mom used to have. I baked that thing for over 50 minutes, to make sure the fruit was adequately cooked. The result smelled pleasingly of apple pie. That was not what I was expecting.

The fruit ended up not cooking down very much, and although soft and moist, it seemed there was not enough moisture in the fruit to make it smooth and a little juicy. The quince pieces looked like chunks of sweet potato, and lended about the same mouth feel as cooked sweet potato. I thought that quinces turned red as they cooked, so I expected the filling to be a nice rhubarb color when it finished baking. Instead, the chunks of fruit were a dusky orange-brown, again, like sweet potato. And the flavor of pasilla was not evident at all in the final product.

The crust was dynamite, though.

If I look at what could have gone better, I come back to the following potential issues:

underripe quinces (maybe get them at the farmer's market next time)
too much cinnamon and/or not enough pasilla
may need more sugar than the 1/3 cup I added to the filling
may need to add liquid to the fruit mixture to get it to cook better; this could be something like cherry or apple juice (or apple sauce?

If you have any other suggestions, let me know. The quest for quince and pasilla pie is not at an end. I think it's a flavor sensation worth pursuing. The first one was not a winner, but I am not discouraged, and have all season to suss it out. I will follow up with my next trial. Fortunately for Sac Pie, someone is always willing to consume the rejects from these experiments.

Next Pie of the Week: Cranberry

National Pie Day

2009-12-06T17:05:00.000-08:00

Just to prove that I am not making up a new holiday, take a look at

http://www.chiff.com/a/american-pie-day.htm

Find out how you can make your own celebration and proselytize, promote, and prepare pie!

Also, start thinking about how we can reclaim the American Pie Festival from the likes of Crisco and their fellow travelers. How did it get to be theirs in the first place?

Pie Spy

2009-11-30T12:22:00.001-08:00

Pie Spy will help you find delicious pie in places outside your own home. How far from home? Hard to tell - wherever there is, as they say in the military, a target-rich environment.

This week, it's San Francisco. It was not my aim to search out all pie venues in the city on this trip. But I did want to explore Noe Valley - and a treasure trove it was.

Noe Valley Bakery (www.noevalleybakery.com) made the beautiful pies you see here. They sell them at the Saturday farmer's market behind the Ferry Building, but the bakery is located at 4073 24th Street, and is open Saturdays. With concoctions like pear-cranberry, and bona-fide double crusts (none of that crumble-topping jazz), they know their pies! You can get a good cup of coffee there; someone needs to convince them to sell their pie by the slice.

Across the street from Noe Valley Bakery is Peasant Pies (www.peasantpies.com), which offers all hand pies and a comfortable sit-down area in which to enjoy them. A small menu, but it offers something for breakfast, lunch, or snack, including for vegans and vegetarians. Is Noe Valley San Francisco's center of critical mass for pie?

Check in with Pie Spy for more sightings!

2009-11-24T09:37:00.000-08:00

Pie of the Week: Making the World Safe for Mincemeat!

This pie is wonderful because it can be slightly different every time I make it. It started out in the 1980's with a recipe I made up on the fly -with shredded apples, pears, and oranges, dark raisins, and a mixture of clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice (which is also very good).

But this Pie of the Week is a little different. I wanted to try a new kind of mincemeat filling that comes condensed into a 2-by-2.5-inch brick. I found this in the holiday cooking section of the grocery store. I thought it would be equivalent to the Crosse & Blackwell product in the big glass jar. Here at Sac Pie we are always experimenting and striving for maximum pie happiness.

Package instructions call for reconstituting the sticky brick of mince filling with hot water, and that doing so would create enough filling for an 8-inch pie. When it was all re-hydrated, though, it was not enough for a respectable 8-inch pie. The liquid was also a little too thin. So I peeled and chopped 2 MacIntosh apples and mixed them in with the store-bought filling.

The result was a spicy, chunky filling, pleasantly moist but not runny or gooey. A little bit sweet and agreeably tart.

A lot of people I tell about this pie will wrinkle their noses when they hear or read "mincemeat." As if I were pushing Grandma's fruitcake or bread pudding. But if you like those Thanksgiving spices and apples, raisins, and citrus, mincemeat pie is delicious and feels rich and decadent without being at all heavy. And please note, packaged "mincemeat" filling sold in the U.S. does not contain any animal products.

Try it! You might be surprised how much you like it.

Celebrate National Pie Day!

2009-11-23T12:13:00.001-08:00

The American Pie Council has announced that January 23, 2010 is National Pie Day.

If you love to make, eat, photograph, throw, blog, draw, invent, document, critique, improve, or discuss pie, you can celebrate with me on January 23rd.

I will be throwing, um, a Pie Night Party on January 23rd (1/23, or as close as I can get). You can, too. Easy as pie!

I am using the announcement of National Pie Day to kick off my blog, Sac Pie, because Sacramento is a great place to create a rich, deep (-dish) culture of all things Pie. We have an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables to put in pie. We have a home-grown visual artist, Wayne Thiebaud, who obviously is a champion for pie. We enjoy a town full of creative bakers and chefs who can offer their pie-making talents.

What we don't have here in Sacramento is Pie Critical Mass. Maybe you have noticed this. Where can you go, of an evening, if you just want a nice piece of pie? And not just for dessert, for that matter, but for breakfast? The Real Pie Company was a valiant attempt to make Sacramento a pie lover's haven, but it was short-lived. Where can you get a fine, fresh pie to buy if you are too lazy or busy to make one yourself? Who will teach you how to make pie if you really want to learn? Who's making pies with healthy ingredients instead of partially hydrogenated vegetable shortening? Clearly, someone needs to take the cause of pie in this town seriously (but not too).

Here's what I'm proposing to do on this blog.

remind you why pie is an ingredient for a happy life

investigate and promote local Sacramento pie

promote and gauge interest in a local Sacramento Pie Festival

let you know what I'm baking each month

encourage you to share all things pie.

As you can see, there is a lot of room for the development of a community pie culture. Do your part to stand up for pie!